The production of top quality wine by a British-born businessman in one of the driest spots on the planet has been hailed as an "absolute miracle" by experts.

Defying all the odds, Allan Walkden-Davis planted a vineyard on the edge of the Namibian desert.

Now, a few miles from where the wind-whipped sands of the Namib stretch out to the Tsaris mountains, lies probably the world's most parched winery at Neuras.

As well as sunshine — available beyond abundance – grapes need water, but Neuras averages around 3in of rain a year, sometimes less than an inch.

Even so Allan Walkden-Davis, now a proud naturalised citizen of Namibia, produces 3,000 to 3,500 bottles of acclaimed Shiraz and a Shiraz-Merlot blend annually.

Add in the presence of a tame one-eyed ostrich called Dolly and the concept begins to look more than eccentric.

"Afrikaans-speaking people think I'm on cloud whatever number," he said. "We had a number of wise old men who explained to us why it was not going to happen.

"One fellow couldn't understand why I would want to do something so outlandish.

He said: 'Can he not go bankrupt farming sheep or cattle the same as everyone else?' "

But Mr Walkden-Davis, 63, is a former managing director of Shell Namibia, and with the help of a South African oenologist, Abrie Bruwer, the winery has been carefully planned.

By a series of geographical accidents the 35,000-acre farm, the majority of which is stony desert or savannah grassland, includes a geological fault and the green splash of a natural oasis that is near-perfect terroir.

Five springs provide copious quantities of pure water, the mountains shield the earth from the harsh desert wind and the alkaline soil is perfect for vines.

Nevertheless, the grapes have to be harvested in the early hours, before they become too warm.

Michael Olivier, a Cape Town-based wine writer and consultant, described the 2004 Namib Red as "absolutely stunning, amazing wine", with "nice dark berries," slight acidity, plums, and just a little bit of that peppery Italian leather".

"Knowing where it came from it was superb, he said. "The fact that grapes can be grown there to me is an absolute miracle."